Kumbakonam The Holy city

KUMBAKONAM – THE HOLY CITY

History of temples around Kumbakonam:

Kumbakonam, situated in the heart of Thanjavur Delta area, is one of the holiest towns in India. The first occupants of this place are believed to have come here between 3^rd century BC and 3^rd century AD. The town has more than 188 temples within its limits. As Cauvery branches into various rivers and enters the Bay of Bengal at various points the villages in 50 kilometers radius are all thickly populated. The old saying says that people should not live in a village where there is no temple.  Accordingly each village boasts of either a Shiva temple or a Vishnu temple or of both.

One day will not be sufficient to visit the temples of this town alone. An attempt is being made to create separate blogs about the temples of this town and again segmenting various temples based on a route. An ardent devotee can spend even 10 days to go around these temples. These temples can be classified as Shiva temples, temples for Vishnu, navagraha temples, temples for each natchatra, temples for rasi, temples for Pillayar and Murugan etc.  Many of the 18 siddar peedams are also located in this area.

Formation of Kumbakonam:

As per legend when Mahapralaya (when deluge ) covered the whole of south India, Brahma kept Amruth, Vedas and the necessary ingredients for regeneration of life in a kumba ( pot) and kept it atop Meru hills. The kumba started floating due to the deluge and when it reached Kumbakonam, Lord Shiva tore it open with an arrow (Baanam). The amruth fell on the Mahamaham tank situated in the holy city and also in the Potramarai (Golden Lotus) tank.  The town derives the name from this story. Lord Kumbeswarar is the presiding deity. Mahamaham, the  famous festival celebrated on the date on which Maham star falls in Feb- March, is celebrated once in 12 years and the next mahamam is due in 2016

              

      A view of   Mahamaham tank                               

Greatness of Kumbakonam:

            There is an old Sanskrit verse reading as under:

Anya shetre krutham pavam , punya shetre vinasthithi

Punya shetre krutham pavam , varanasyam  vinasthithi

Varansyam krutham pavam , Kumbakone vinasthithi

Kumbakone krutham pavam , Kumbakone vinasthithi.

    It means that a person who commits a wrong or sin in any place can get rid of it by Praying at any Punya Shetra (Holy place). In case the wrong or sin is done at Punya shetra, one has to visit Varanasi and offer prayers to get rid of the sin. In case of doing a wrong thing at Varanasi, one has to visit Kumbakonam and if a person does anything wrong at Kumbakonam, the parikaram lies at Kumbakonam only. There is one shiva temple at Kottaiyur on Swamimalai road, just on the outskirts of Kumbakonam. The priest at this temple said that Lord Shiva gave dharshan as Kotilingam( One crore lingams) and a visit to Kumbakonam will be complete only by visiting Kottaiyur.

Greatness of Kumbakonam as described in Bhavath Vinayaga Temple:

This temple for Vinayagar  is  situated in Mutt street . As per inscriptions found in the temple the temple was built in 1590s. Saint Baghavat padhar’s mother, at the time of her death asked her son to do the final rites at the place where her ashes would bloom into flowers. Accordingly, Bhaghavatpathar decided to carry the ashes across various sacred rivers. His disciple, who was travelling found that the  ashes became flowers at the banks of Cauvery river at Kumbakonam but did not tell about this to Bhavatpadar. When the ashes did not turn into flower even at Varanasi, Bhagavatpadar came back to Caruvery river where the ashes once again bloomed. A temple of Bhagawat Vinayagar has been built at this place.  It is proudly proclaimed, in view of this event, that  Kumbakonam is better than Varanasi by 1/16^th. ( Kasikku Veesam Perisu).

 

                                                                                                                                          Perumal Temples at Kumbakonam:

       This town is also the abode for the 2^nd Divya desam of 108 vaishnava temples namely Sarangapani temple. This town also has other Vaishnava temples such as Ramaswamy Temple, Varadaraja perumal temple, Chakrapani temple and Adhi varagha temple. As per the priest the Aadhi Varagha temple situated  close to solaiappan street near Kumbeswarar temple is older than Adhi Kumbeswarar temple.

Shiva temples at Kumbakonam:

       Besides Sri Adhi Kumbeswarar temple, the town has Sri Nageswarar temple, Sri Someswarar temple, Sri Kasi viswanathar temple, Sri Gowthameswarar temple, Sri Abhimukeswarar temple,  Sri Aadhikambatta Viswanathar temple,   Sri Bhanapureeswarar temple, Sri Kambatta Viswanathar temple, Sri Koteeswarar temple, Sri Kalahastheeswarar temple and Sri Ekambareswarar temple.

Other important places:

        In soliappan street, there is an adhistanam for Swamy Vijayendirar, Guru of Swamy Raghavendrar. There are also  Vedapadasalas functioning at Kumbakonam. Kumbakonam is also famous for panchaloka and other idols. The famous silk sarees are manufactured at Kumbakonam and Thirubhuvanam . It is said that the Chola King Kotchengannan (7th century AD) constructed around 70 Shiva temples in this area. One of the six padai veedu of Lord Muruga, Swamimalai, is situated just 6 kilometers from Kumbakonam. There is also a separate temple for Brahma located about 600 meters off the Mahamaham tank.

The map of 108 famous Shiva temples situated within 50 kilometer radious of Kumbakonam is given below. (coutesy Deepika constructions, Kumbakonam).

   Navagraha temples shown in the map above:

1.       Suriyan : Suriyanar koil

2.       Moon:    Thingalur

3.       Guru :    Alangudi.

4.       Raghu:  Thirunageswaram

5.       Budhan : Tiruvengadu

6.       Sukran:  Kanchanur

7.       Kethu : Keezha perumpallam.

8.       Saniswarar: Tirunallaar

9.       Angaraha : Vaitheeswarankoil.

All said and done, a trip to Kumbakonam will not be complete without drinking a cup of “Kumbakonam degree coffee/ filter coffee” in the   traditional copper tumbler and davara. 

      

Sirkali

One day tour of Tamil Nadu: Sirkali.

 Sirkali is located 20 kms south of Chidambaram and about 90kms south of Pondicherry by road. It is one of the important shiva temples. Lodges are available at Vaitheeswarankoil 6 kms away. Connected with Chennai by train

 It is the birth place of Shiva saint Thirugnanasambandar. When Gnanasambandar was young, he was given milk by Ambal herself near the sacred pond situated in this temple and he began singing songs in praise of Lord Shiva and Ambal  from the tender age. One has to climb about 50 steps to have dharshan of Lord Sattanathar .

Tirukolakka is also a place, where Shiva temple is  located and is  about a kilometer away from the temple in Sirkali. Gnanasambandar  sang in this temple for the first time in his divine yatra . It is believed that Lord Shiva provided thalam and Ambal provided  divine sound ( Oosai), when Sambandar sang here.

Vaitheeswarankoil is located about 6 Kilometers south of Sirkali. It is one of the navagraha temples. There is a separate sannathi for Angaraha ( Sevvai). Jadayu, who fought Ravana, when he was taking Sita to Lanka, died at this place and Jadayu was cremated here. It is believed that the prasadam of this temple cures diseases.

Thirupunkur: Nandhi was asked to  move at this place so that Nandanar can have dharshan of Lord Shiva. This place is 3 kms away from Vaitheeswarankoil. One has to take Thirupanandal route starting from south car st/West car St junction and travel 3 kms and then one kilometer on the left side to reach the temple. Three of the shiva saints sung at this place.

Evening:

Tharangambadi:One can visit the Danish fort established at Tarangambadi (as per map). This was established by Danish king Frederick in 1620s to promote trade with south India. It is located  right on the sea shore and also has a museum inside the fort. 

Tirukkadaiyur: On the way back about 5-6 kms away from Tharangambadi, this town is located. There are many lodges and restaurants available in this town.  This  is the place where Lord Shiva bestowed       Markandeyar that he will always be at the age of 16 after killing Yama who came to take the life of Markandeya. There is a separate sannadhi for Yama here. People celebrate their 60^th birthday in large numbers here.

Keelaperumpallam: One has to travel back to Akkur mukkuttu,(5Kms) Karuvili (Karuvilandhanathapuram: 9 kms) and then towards poompuhar and take a left turn to reach Keelaperumpallam (app 5-6 kms). This is kethu sthalam.

Poompuhar: It is here the river Cauvery enters Bay of Bengal. The famous Silappathikaram has its origins here. There is a museum and a statue of Kannagi  located close to the sea shore. There is also a light house.

Tiruvenkadu:  This is a navagraha sthalam for Budhan. The Shiva temple is a big one and there is a separate sannathi for Bhdhan near Ambal temple.

Chidambaram

This is the first of the series of blogs which I intend creating.  I am a vivid traveler. I am normally interested in visiting various towns across Tamil Nadu by rail or bus, stay there for a day or two and visit places of interest around this town.  I have chosen to start with Chidambaram.

Chidambaram Natarajar   .

  This town is situated 240 Kms south of chennai and is well connected by road and rail. There are good hotels to stay and have food.

   The holy town of Chidambaram is the abode of Lord Nataraja, the dancing God (Shiva). On 1st of May 2015, this temple was consecrated supposedly after 28 years.  The world is made of Panja bootha (Land: represented by Lord Shiva at Kancheepuram; Water: Lord Shiva at Tiruvanaikkoil, Trichy; Fire, represented by Lord Shiva at Tiruvannamalai; Air represented by Lord Shiva at Sri Kalahasthi and space (Akayam in Tamil) represented by Lord Nataraja at Chidambaram. The main temple is made of 21600 gold leaves representing the number of times we breathe in a day.

Thillai Kali

Long long ago the town was ruled by Kali Maatha. Lord Nataraja won the battle of dance against Kali Matha. Kali Matha was then ordained to live just outside this town and is known as Thillaikali. The town is also known as Thillai. The visit to Chidamabaram is incomplete without a  dharshan of Thillaikali. This temple is situated within 800-1000 meters of the North Sannathi (temple view on right side)

 Pichavaram:

Pichavaram mangrove forest is situated about 10 kilometers towards east near Bay of Bengal. The mangroves have lost their density now but are still worth a boat drive across back waters. This is considered as a tourist spot. Boats are available to go around in back waters.

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Other Places of interest

 There are many places of interest around this town. Sri Raghavendra was born at Bhuvanagiri, which is about 6 kilometers from the town on way to Cuddalore (towards Chennai). There is a temple dedicated to Holy Raghavendra at Bhuvanagiri..

   The town of Sirkali is 20 kms away where Thirugnanasambandar (one of the nalvar who adore all Shiva temples). There is Sattanathar temple at Sirkali and there is also a Shiva temple at Tirukkolakka, where Thirugnanasambandar sang about Shiva.   Lot can be written about Nataraja temple. Chidambaram is also the place where the famous Annamalai University is situated.

These are some of the 274 revered Shiva temples. Vaitheeswarankoil is about 26 kms away from Chidambaram and 6 kilometers to the south of Sirkali. This temple is one of the most revered temples and Lord Vaidyanatha Swami is the presiding deity.

There are famous Vaishnava Shrines at Kattumannarkoil (25 Kilometers to the west and Sri Mushnam (app 60 kms to the west) which are worth worshiping.